Husqvarna Norden 901 Valve Check

Skip to below the divider if you're not curious about KTM's camshaft situation or the reason for this article.

It's now widely known that KTM have a problem with the camshafts on their LC8c series of engines, which includes the 790 and 890 Adventure models as well as their cousin the Husqvarna Norden 901. My 901 is at 15 and a half thousand miles, which is barely half the initial interval for valve checks, but I want to put eyes on my valvetrain while the warranty is still valid. (KTM have recently stated that they'll cover camshaft issues, but who knows how that'll play out?)

Anyway, here's what I learned working through it. Maybe it'll help you out. I didn't need to adjust the valves at this time, so this article doesn't cover that. The manual does, of course. I did buy the digital version of the service manual as a backup reference. Another good reference is this thread on ADV Rider. I'll link to a few specific posts there below.

Then there are a few videos on YouTube which can give good views into various areas in case you lose track of where something goes. This one goes through the actual check process, which I'm not really covering here. This one's not in English, but the subtitles are fine and it gives you good views and advice also.

Bash Plate, Bodywork & Tank

This is one area that is well covered elsewhere. This video from Rottweiler Performance does a great job explaining removal of the tank and bodywork. If you have the standard Norden, it covers the bash plate on your bike. Skip to the video.

If you have the Expedition model, first remove the bolt on the right side bracket at the back corner of the bash plate and the two bolts connecting it to the sidestand bracket on the left side. Now pull the two rearmost screws underneath (#3 Phillips, not #2!), then pull the four on the front face (Torx 30). It'll drop right off the bike. Swing the front tire to one side to get it out of the way.

Also see my note down below about missing rubber spacers with the Expedition version of the bash plate.

When that's done you have a clear view of the valve cover, but there are some things in the way of progress. I recommend taking your own photos as memory aids for wire routing, screw types, etc., as you continue.

A Bit of Headroom

Here's how I got enough clearance to work the various parts out so the cover can be removed. The coil-on-plug assemblies are rather tall. They have a cylinder that lines the spark plug bore and a connector at the bottom. They can't be lifted out unless you loosen some things in the battery area.

First, free the battery box by removing one T30 on each side. Note that the left side screw has a shallower shoulder than the one on the right.

Then, remove the mounting screws for the ABS module bracket. T30 again, one on the left and two on the right.

The plug that crosses over the area on the right side is held to its bracket with a tabbed slide contraption. Here's a photo showing it removed. I had a helper wiggle it off while I pushed on the tab with a small screwdriver from the left side of the bike.

Once those things are detached you can push each assembly up from underneath as you work on what's below.

Housekeeping

Before you go any further, do everything you can to get rid of the mud and grit that has accumulated in this area. It's very easy to have it drop into your engine as the coils and cover are removed. Obviously you don't want that. Use a brush, vacuum, damp rag, and whatever else you have on hand to really clean up this area and what's above and beside it.

Bleeder, Coils & Plugs

Next, pull the "bleeder flange" screw, then tug the bleeder out of the valve cover. You can separate the electrical plug ends to move them out of the way. This step is also mentioned on page 274 of the 2023 Expedition service manual.

Now pull the screw from each coil (you guessed it--T30) and you can pop them out. They're retained with a rubber gasket, so it does take a bit of force, but you can feel the flex. Gently pry upward on the coil head right near the valve cover. Don't get on the upper housing or force too much. They'll slip out with just a few pounds of pull.

I've read that you need a special tool for the plugs in this bike. I didn't. I just used a standard 14mm deep well socket and a 3" extension. I added a bit of duct tape at the socket rim to hold the plug, and I inserted the tools in sequence so they'd fit. No problem.

Now you can remove the valve cover. Pull the four 10mm bolts, then use a bit of wood and a mallet to pop the gasket loose. A few taps upward on the bottom edge of the cover on each side did nicely for me. Once it was loose I was able to work it out the right side of the bike.

This step is mentioned on page 291 of 2023 Expedition service manual.

Once You're In

I'm not going through the clearance check process here in its entirety. That's covered very widely on the internet and isn't much different here than with many other bikes. I will mention a few tips, though.

Clearance check is covered on page 365 of 2023 Expedition service manual.

The Follower Clip Thing

In order to access the exhaust valves on cylinder 2 with typical feeler gauges you'll need to pull the "cam lever clip", a simple snap-in retainer which apparently solves some problem or other when installing the cams. This creates the opportunity for frustration by allowing the followers for those valves to move freely to toward the right side of the bike with any force at all. This not only makes it impossible to measure clearance, it opens the possibility of the shims coming out of their recesses and falling in the engine or whatever. Proceed with caution here.

Once I started detecting odd clearance readings I did some research. The ADV Rider thread I mentioned at the start provides some clues:

Just Yank the Radiator Already

After I understood the problem I pulled my radiator so I could see what I was doing and avoid disaster. It's a matter of draining the coolant (save it if you like), disconnecting hoses, removing the fan motors, and removing a few screws.

Draining the coolant is covered on page 394 of 2023 Expedition service manual.

Buttoning it Back Up

Everything should go back together as you'd expect. Just retrace your steps and pause between each to check the location of related parts and that all fasteners are present and torqued to spec. Use threadlocker where advised, or where you can see that it was previously used.

I cleaned up my cover and the six small gaskets with soapy water. The cover gasket stayed put on the cover, so I just used a bit of RTV on the head wall around the cam and breather cutouts. They say that if it's going to leak, it'll be there.

O Bumpers, Where Art Thou?

Husqvarna has been known to forget parts during final assembly. In this case, the rubber spacers between the fuel tank and engine bash plate were never installed on my bike. I discovered this on a long trip whan I started hearing a rattling noise at highway cruise and had to deal with it when I got home by ordering parts and fabricating support brackets. Damage had started to occur on the bash plate and the tank itself. Read more on Norden Forums

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